Visiting Villa Nellcôte - where Exile on Main Street was recorded
The Villa Nellcôte, in Villefranche Sur Mer has to be one of the most fabled locations in rock n roll history. It was here that Keith Richards moved in October 1971 to avoid high taxes in the UK. It is here where the Rolling Stones would congregate and record their classic album, Exile on Main Street.
The location is no secret, and one i've known for some time. But on our recent trip to Beaulieu-sur-Mer I realised just how close it was, so I had to take a look.
The Gates of Nellcôte - Summer 2024
"Villa Nellcôte was built in the late 1890s by Eugene Thomas, a former banker. The villa was built imposingly, decorated elaborately framed by iconic columns made from marble. It is in an amazing location on the waterfront, in what has been voted one of the worlds most beautiful bays on many occasions." (thanks HomeHunts.)
Sitting between the sea and the railway line, Villa Nellcôte is just like any other high gated villa in the South of France. For a musical pilgrim like myself it was great to put a location to the many stories that have flown from this villa.
Where was Exile on Main Street recorded?
The Rolling Stones recorded Exile on Main Street primarily at Villa Nellcôte in the South of France. Some tracks had been started earlier during the Sticky Fingers sessions at Stargroves, Mick Jagger’s English country home, in 1969. The Rolling Stones’ mobile studio was later driven down to the Riviera so the band could record directly at the villa.
Overdubs and production were completed at Sunset Sound in Los Angeles.
As tax exiles, the band immersed themselves in a hedonistic lifestyle while crafting a raw, bluesy sound that captured the spirit of the times. Released in May 1972 the album is a bonafide classic album and for many the very best album released by the Stones. I personally prefer Sticky Fingers but that's another story.
Exile is one of a handful of classic albums recorded in the South of France.
Whilst the stories from this time are legendary, and mostly true it is amazing to think some of my idols walked these paths, and possibly drank in some of the local bars or restaurants that are still here today.
Where did the Rolling Stones live during their Tax Exile?
Villa Nellcôte was rented by Keith Richards, and while it became the unofficial headquarters for the band and assorted hangers-on, it was not where the other Stones chose to live during their exile in France. Charlie Watts moved his family to Arles, north-west of Marseille. Bill Wyman was a little closer, settling in Vence, north-west of Nice, while Mick Taylor lived in Grasse, just inland from Cannes. Mick Jagger divided his time between Paris and Biot, a small town between Nice and Cannes.
How to find Villa Nellcôte
The villa address is 10 Av. Louise Bordes, 06230 Villefranche-sur-Mer, France. Whilst the address is in Villefranche, it is closer to Beaulieu. I walked down from Beaulieu to get my pictures.
You can drive past the gates but there isn't anywhere to park up. Alternatively you can walk to the villa in around 20 minutes from the Beaulieu-sur-Mer train station (with regular trains to and from Nice and Monaco.) It's around 30 minutes from the Villefranche SNCF railway station.
Do remember this is a private residence if you visit.