Château de la Chèvre d’Or: Our Review of One of the World’s Best Hotels
Perched on the very edge of Eze Village is the famous Chateau Chèvre d’Or. Before last summer, dining at Les Remparts is one of the very best experiences to be had on the Cote D’Azur. That was until we got to stay for a few nights last summer 2022.
Update for 2024: The Chèvre d’Or has been named as one of our top 5 favourite luxury hotels of 2024. We stayed again during the summer of 2024.
One of the most prestigious hotels on the French Riviera, Chateau Chevre d’Or is a historic luxury hotel located in the medieval village of Eze on the French Riviera. The origins of the hotel can be traced back to the 1950s, when a group of artists and intellectuals, including Jean Cocteau, discovered the abandoned ruins of a 14th-century chateau in the village and decided to restore it.
Today it is one of two spectacular hotels in the ancient village of Eze.
The hotel has a number of gorgeous rooms with views out across the gorgeous bay, down towards Eze village (where Bono and U2 live) and across towards Saint Jean Cap Ferrat.
The Panorama from La Chevre D’Or
Since it was a momentous occasion, we decided to unleash our inner rock stars and go all out by booking the most lavish suite in the entire hotel. One of those times where you take a sharp intake of breath when you hit the booking button, but never regret after the stay.
The Chèvre D'or Panormic Suite
The Panoramic Suite live up to its name, with uninterrupted views across the bay. Tucked away on the edge of the cliff, the suite offered true privacy in the room and private pool area but still close enough to pop up to Les Ramperts for breakfast or dinner.
The suite consisted of one massive bed, with views, a full closet for madame and a full closet for monsieur - a true luxury indeed! The living space offered comfy chairs and sofa to lounge on whilst you could have just stayed in the bathroom it was so big.
In any other place, a gold bath would come across as garish and over-the-top, but not here! The glimmering gold finish caught the sunlight in the most enchanting way, intensifying the already impressive factor of the bathroom, complete with not one, but two showers and a pair of exquisite gold sinks.
Stepping out from the suite we descended to our own pool area, complete with 2 dining/seating areas an infinity pool and whirlpool. Combined this suite was bigger than many apartments I’ve rented! The nightly rate is also in line with some apartments I have rented but it was worth it.
Nietzsche Suite
For our second stay we tried the Nietzsche Suite. Slightly smaller, and more modern than the Panoramic but no less comfortable. Located next to the Café du Jardin, the convenient location is a trade off with less privacy. Whilst you can see the diners from your private pool, they cannot see you BUT you are overlooked from above unless you extend the patio awning. Not a major issue, but noteworthy.
A room tour of the Nietzsche Suite at the Chèvre D’Or in Eze. Taken by Wine, Travel and Song July 2024.
A large, modern living area offers direct access into the private pool, with views across the bay. A smaller seating area offers a great spot to escape the sun whilst the large bedroom offers a vast comfortable bed and stunning views. The bathroom is gilded with a large tub (not gold) with plenty of cupboard space, although less than the Panoramic Suite.
A modern Marshall speaker is the perfect oportunity to play my South of France playlist.
Dining at Le Chèvre D’Or
The chateau has two main restaurants and a poolside cafe for lunch. ‘Les Ramperts’ is the principle restaurant serving Bistro style food as you look out to sea. Breakfast for hotel guests includes a generous continental buffet with options for Asian and British diets !
Lunch here is wonderful, just basking in the sunshine whist you devour entrecôte & frites and maybe just one more bottle or Rosé.
For us, it was dinner that was the standout. Arriving just before sunset, we sat enjoying three courses of delicious food whilst watching gather sun set and the lights go on across the bay and over to Nice.
We had planned to eat here once, try the 2 Michelin Starred La Chèvre d’Or Gourmet Restaurant and find a find a local eatery for the final night. But we loved Les Ramperts so much we ate there twice!
For our special dinner we chose the tasting menu upstairs at the Gourmet Restaurant. Whilst the food and the view were incredible, I think Les Ramperts had it for us. I’ll write up another post on the food!
Is staying at the Chèvre D’Or worth it?
Yes absolutely. This is not a cheap hotel, but it is great value if you can afford it.
There was something very special about slipping past the crowds and back into this luxury oasis of a hotel. The small but perfect grounds were ours to stroll around as we took pictures or sipped a cocktail on one of the many terraces. The staff were so helpful ensuring we were so well looked after.
The views here are to die for. Staying at the hotel allows you to see light changing as it rises high in the sky changing the colours from gentle pastels to bright blue and then to gentle purples as the sun finally sets on another Rivieria day. Rarely have I taken so many pictures of the same view.
One of the real treats was the option to slip into the village late at night, when all but the locals had gone home. Walking around these deserted medieval streets gave us a rare feeling of what it might have been like so many years ago.
This is an ideal luxury hotel for a long weekend in the South of France, close enough to Nice airport, but far enough away to really feel on holiday.
Living with Rock Stars in the South of France
Eze Village It is not to be confused with Eze Sur Mer, down by the sea. The village is situated between Nice and Monaco and offers visitors a chilled atmosphere and stunning scenery. It Is also home to Bono, The Edge and Larry Mullen who bought up houses in the late Eighties. Bono’s historic chateau, known as “the Fortress” originally built in the 15th century and has been restored and modernised by Bono and his wife Ali Hewson.
The hilltop village is also close to other rock royalty or chapters in rock history. To the East was the old recording studio of ‘Super Bear’ (in Super Berre) which played host to Pink Floyd, Kate Bush and Queen - in the late 70’s and early 80’s. The late Richard Wright of Pink Floyd’ used to own a beautiful place in Le Rouret back towards Grasse. Elton John still has a "summer house" outside Nice, whilst the infamous Villa Nellcote, where the Stones recorded Exile on Main Street is a short cab diversion when you head back to Nice. In fact Bill Wyman still has a place over in Vence. I sat next on the table next to him at dinner one time over at La Colombe D’Or - but that’s a story for another day.
Getting to Chèvre D’or
Eze is best reached by car, with a taxi from Le Negresco costing around 80 Euros. The journey is quite normal for the taxi drivers so you don’t need to book ahead - but you will need to for the return journey.
The costs are eye watering but if you truly want to live like a rock star for the weekend, its worth every penny!
