Château de la Chèvre d’Or: What It’s Really Like to Stay at the Hotel
Most people experience Èze for an hour or two.
They arrive by bus or car, walk the narrow streets, take photos of the view, buy a souvenir, then leave. By late afternoon, the village empties, the shutters close, and silence returns — broken only by the distant chink of glasses and the low murmur of diners settling in to enjoy one of the best sunsets on the French Riviera.
But for all the visitors and dinner reservations, only a handful of people ever stay the night. That is when the magic really happens.
Over the past decade, we have visited, dined, and stayed — twice. And this is what it is really like to stay at la Chèvre d’Or.
The first statue you encounter on arrival, marking the entrance to the Château de la Chèvre d’Or hotel grounds.
Perched on the very edge of Èze Village is the famous Chèvre d’Or. The origins of the hotel can be traced back to the 1950s, when a group of artists and intellectuals, including Jean Cocteau, discovered the abandoned ruins of a 14th-century château in the village and decided to restore it into this globally recognised luxury hotel.
A framed view of the Mediterranean from the hotel grounds, looking out across the Riviera.
Arrival, Access, and the Reality of Getting Here
Getting to Château de la Chèvre d’Or is not effortless, and that is part of the point. The nearest railway station sits around two kilometres below the village at Èze-sur-Mer. From there, buses and taxis climb the mountain and drop most visitors at the edge of Èze Village, leaving them to walk the final stretch through steep, cobbled streets.
Guests of the Chèvre d’Or have no such challenges. Vehicles are waved through the barriers and guided into the private car park, where discreet hotel staff take care of both luggage and logistics.
Arriving at the car park gates of Château de la Chèvre d’Or in Èze.
Walking through the gardens, past gold statues and running water, with views opening out across the Mediterranean, guests are guided towards reception. Porters take care of the luggage. Already you feel miles away from the small packed streets of the village which in reality is less than 500 metres from your new oasis.
Rooms & Suites at the Chèvre D’Or
There are around forty-five rooms and suites at the Chèvre d’Or, spread across the village and the hotel’s own grounds. Entry-level rooms are set within Èze Village itself, while larger deluxe rooms sit closer to the heart of the property.
The three most sought-after suites are located within the hotel grounds, just steps from the gardens and Les Remparts. These are the Royale Suite, the Nietzsche Suite, and the Panoramic Suite. From our stays, here is what it is like to stay in the Nietzsche and the Panoramic Suites.
The Panoramic Suite at Château de la Chèvre d’Or
The Panoramic Suite lives up to its name, with uninterrupted views across the bay. Tucked away on the edge of the cliff, the suite offered true privacy in the room and private pool area but still close enough to pop up to Les Remparts for breakfast or dinner.
Early morning light from the Panoramic Suite, looking out towards Cap Ferrat and the open sea.
The main sitting room of the Panoramic Suite is defined by its ceiling. Set into a deep white cornice is a large glass panel, tinted a soft Riviera blue and patterned with an intricate wrought-iron style design. It feels closer to an early-twentieth-century conservatory roof than a hotel feature, Floor-to-ceiling windows draw light into the room, giving the space a pale, aquatic glow that shifts subtly as the sun moves across the coast below.
The main living space of the Panoramic Suite, defined by its decorative glass ceiling and soft Riviera light.
The rest of the room is deliberately classical. Cream upholstery, polished wood furniture, and gold-framed mirrors keep the palette calm and traditional, allowing the ceiling to remain the focal point. Plush curtains separate the large bedroom which consisted of one massive bed, with views, a full closet for madame with plenty of hangers.
The Panoramic Suite bedroom, opening directly onto the terrace and Mediterranean views.
A small anteroom provides access down a private staircase to your own heated pool, jacuzzi and two terraces.
The bathroom is flooded with light and arranged as a theatrical interior rather than a conventional hotel space. A freestanding bath sits at the centre, wrapped in gold mosaic and placed on a raised platform, with slim marble columns marking out the room like a stage set. The walls are lined with classical-style murals depicting colonnades and sea views, painted to suggest depth and open air rather than enclosure. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow you to bathe with a view while still maintaining privacy. Somehow the gold, which could look tacky elsewhere, works beautifully in the Côte d’Azur light.
The Panoramic Suite bathroom, with a gold mosaic bath set against hand-painted murals.
Stepping out from the suite we descended to our own pool area, complete with two dining/seating areas, an infinity pool and a whirlpool. There is space to entertain, or to enjoy a private room service dinner or for entertaining guests. The infinity pool tips over the side making it feel like we were truly on the edge.
The Panoramic Suite’s private terrace, with infinity pool and jacuzzi overlooking the Mediterranean.
The space and comfort of the Panoramic Suite are matched by its privacy. You are not overlooked from above, and certainly not from below. This is somewhere you could comfortably hide for a luxurious long weekend, with little need for anything beyond a glass of rosé and good company.
Staying in the Nietzsche Suite
Named after the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche, who spent time in the village while writing some of his most important work, the Nietzsche Suite is slightly smaller in scale and more contemporary in its décor. Located next to the Café du Jardin, the convenient location is a trade-off with slightly less privacy.
A welcome tray of macarons waiting in the Nietzsche Suite on arrival.
You enter into a large living area, a table is set for your arrival with a bottle of something and some Macarons. The back wall is mirrored to amplify the light flooding in from the floor to ceiling windows offering uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean, and across towards the Golden Triangle of Cap Ferrat and beyond. A large cream sofa invites you to stretch out and enjoy the view.
Room tour video of the Nietzsche Suite at Château de la Chèvre d’Or in Èze Village, showing the living space, private terrace, infinity pool, and panoramic Mediterranean views.
The suite is dotted with different spaces, ideal for spreading out, or for entertaining. A further seating area, with desk, TV and Marshall amp, connects you to yet another set of chairs looking out to the private pool. Into the large bedroom, again flooded with natural light A walk in-closet with plenty of storage space sits discreetly between the two rooms.
In the bedroom, a large upholstered headboard in soft neutral tones anchors the space, paired with crisp white linens and lightly patterned cushions that introduce a subtle Riviera palette without drawing attention away from the sea beyond.
Furniture is minimal and practical: slim bedside tables with sculptural lamps, a low bench at the foot of the bed, and pale wood flooring that adds warmth without heaviness. Floor-to-ceiling glass doors open directly onto the terrace.
A small but telling detail in the Nietzsche Suite: a Marshall Bluetooth speaker paired with a book on Charlie Watts, quietly reinforcing the hotel’s connection to music, atmosphere, and unhurried time.
Beyond is the bathroom with striking black mosaic tiles and gold mosaic flooring. A standalone bath (white, not gold sadly), two sinks and a large shower complete this luxurious space.
A private pool, slightly larger than a plunge pool gives you a chance to cool down as the smells of fresh pizza waft over from the terrace restaurant. Whilst you can see the diners from your private pool, they cannot see you but you are overlooked from above unless you extend the patio awning. Just a small consideration, certainly not a problem.
The Nietzsche Suite from the outside, with its infinity pool and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Mediterranean.
Dining at the Hotel
The Chèvre d’Or draws diners from across the Riviera, but it is at its best when you are staying overnight.
Private staircase leading from the hotel grounds up to Les Remparts for breakfast and dinner.
Breakfast at Les Remparts
The terrace at Les Remparts is the setting for both breakfast and dinner. Guests staying within the hotel grounds walk up a private staircase that opens directly onto the terrace.
In the early mornings, it is a relaxed and peaceful experience compared to the boulangeries and cafés at the edge of the village.
Breakfast seating on the Les Remparts terrace at Château de la Chèvre d’Or
Breakfast is a generous continental buffet with hot and cold options, alongside an additional menu for special requests. You sit on the terrace overlooking the deep blue sea, enjoying fresh fruit and pastries with tea and coffee served from beautiful china. Possibly one of the most beautiful breakfast spots on the French Riviera.
Breakfast at Les Remparts terrace at Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Èze
Lunch at Café du Jardin
Lunch at Le Café du Jardin is served on a panoramic terrace slightly below the hotel, just across from the Nietzsche Suite and close to the main swimming pool. Open daily from May to September, and for summer evenings in July and August, Le Café offers a small menu of fresh dishes and pizzas, with plenty of options for sharing, vegetarians, and carnivores alike.
You can settle in for a lazy lunch in the sunshine, or under a parasol, before drifting back to your suite for an afternoon dip or a sunshine snooze.
Dinner at La Chèvre d’Or or Les Remparts
There are two options for dinner: the Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or, or Les Remparts.
Upstairs from reception is the elegant La Chèvre d’Or dining room, with large picture windows offering magnificent views of the Riviera coastline, stretching all the way to Villefranche and beyond Cap Ferrat.
Dinner table at the Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or restaurant with an incredible view!
Inside, the tables are well spaced, giving each one a sense of privacy while maintaining the atmosphere of a lively restaurant. As you would expect, service is exemplary with attention to even the smallest details. There’s a dedicated stool for your handbag or manbag, and the team remain attentive as you enjoy course after course of little delicacies.
Led by Chef Tom Meyer, dinner at La Chèvre d’Or is offered as a fixed tasting menu of five or eight courses, combining local produce with elegant presentation. It is a wonderful experience for food lovers and an opportunity to dress up and enjoy a long evening of indulgence.
For a more relaxed, but no less glamorous, dinner you can eat on the terrace at Les Remparts. To be honest, while we loved the Michelin-starred experience, we often prefer sitting outside with a cold glass of rosé, watching the sky and sea change colour as the evening unfolds. We have written a full review of our dinners at Les Remparts, so do take a look.
Evening dining at Les Remparts terrace, Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Katherine wearing a Chanel dress.
The great thing about dining while staying at the hotel is that there is no need to rush. There are no buses to catch and no Ubers to book. You can simply wander back to your room, glass in hand if you wish, and finish the evening on your own private terrace, watching the moon rise over the sea.
Moonrise over the Mediterranean seen from Les Remparts at Château de la Chèvre d’Or
The Grounds of La Chèvre d’Or
Guests can enjoy the surprisingly large hotel grounds that drop away towards the sea on a range of wide terraces. The main pool is near the Café du Jardin, whilst there are other terraces for sunbathing with plenty of space to find your own little spot.
Golden-tipped statues are dotted around the paved terraces. The verdant sculpture garden is often overlooked by visitors and guests alike.
Moonrise over the Mediterranean from the sculpture garden at Château de la Chèvre d’Or
Set down from the main walkway between the car park and the restaurant, the grass terraces are home to larger-than-life animal statues including elephants, stags, and even a giraffe, all positioned to match the scenery and frame the beautiful blue sea beyond.
Small waterfalls or fountain pools are dotted around to offer some freshness on the hottest summer days.
Evenings and Mornings in an Empty Èze Village
Èze can be busy in the summer months, with crowds of visitors all seeking their own slice of Riviera glamour. When the village becomes your base, you experience it very differently.
Once the last bus has gone, or before the first has arrived, the streets and narrow alleys belong almost entirely to you. You wander quietly, catching glimpses of the church, framed views of the sea, and corners that feel entirely removed from the daytime bustle. Staying during a full moon adds another layer of atmosphere, with moonlight caught between bell towers, over terracotta rooftops, and across the vast expanse of sea beyond.
Moonlight over the terracotta rooftops of Èze village after the crowds have gone
A peaceful approach to Château de la Chèvre d’Or through Èze village after dark
Early mornings are just as striking. Light reaches the terraces before it reaches the coast, moving slowly across stone walls and rooftops. You can watch the sun rise from the hotel grounds, or slip out for a gentle walk through the village as shopkeepers and restaurant owners begin setting up for the day. Then, before the crowds ascend, you retreat once more to the calm and comfort of the hotel.
A quiet street in Èze village as flowers are delivered for the hotel early in the morning
Is Staying at Château de la Chèvre d’Or Worth It?
Staying in Èze, at Château de la Chèvre d’Or, is not a typical five-star hotel experience. It is not easy to reach. There is no beach club, no kids’ club, and only a limited number of rooms. But it is also unlike almost any other hotel you are likely to stay in. The location, service, and food are exceptional, and of all the luxury hotels on the French Riviera, this is the one with the most remarkable views. Watching the sun rise and set from here never loses its appeal. It is not inexpensive, nor should it be, but it justifies its price in a way few hotels do.
The Relais & Châteaux plaque at Château de la Chèvre d’Or, marking its place within the collection.
Château de la Chèvre d’Or is a member of Relais & Châteaux, a collection of independently owned hotels and restaurants rather than a conventional hotel group. The organisation does not own or operate its properties. Each is selected for its setting, history, and commitment to hospitality, with a strong emphasis on food and a clear sense of place. Membership places the Chèvre d’Or alongside properties such as Villa Gallici and Amberley Castle Hotel, both of which we stayed at last year.
Read our review of Villa Gallici, a Relais & Châteaux hotel
Getting to Château de la Chèvre d’Or
The hotel is best reached by car or taxi from Nice. A taxi from central Nice, including from the Negresco, typically costs around 80 euros (2025 prices). A bus from central Nice will take nearer an hour, dropping you at the bottom of the village
Drivers are familiar with the route, and advance booking is rarely essential for arrival, though arranging the return journey is advisable.
The cost may feel high, but if the aim is to experience a part of the Riviera that still feels contained and quietly special, it is a price that makes sense in context.
Admiring the Riviera view from Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Èze, wearing the Footpatrol x The Rolling Stones Access Paris t-shirt.
Location map showing Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Èze Village, perched above the Mediterranean on the French Riviera.