Balmoral Hotel Review: Rocco Forte Perfection in Edinburgh
On our most recent stay in February 2025, we used the Balmoral as our base for a long weekend in one of our favourite cities, catching up with friends and hosting a special dinner.
The location is perfect. The hotel sits above Waverley Station at the east end of Princes Street, where the New Town meets the Old. You can step out towards the shops on George Street, wander down to the Old Town and the Royal Mile, or simply watch the city unfold from your window.
This is not our first stay and it will not be our last. Over the past few years the Balmoral has become the benchmark for city hotels for us, the place we measure other properties against. When we booked Hotel de Rome in Berlin, it was because it is the Balmoral’s sister hotel. In London, Brown’s offers a similar sense of heritage and calm.
In Edinburgh, the Balmoral feels almost like a constant presence. The clocktower is one of the city’s landmarks, visible from all over town. Inside, it is all soft carpets, polished wood and that particular mix of Scottish warmth and Rocco Forte polish that makes you relax almost as soon as you arrive.
It was also the perfect base for a slightly different kind of weekend. Alongside seeing friends and hosting dinner, we used the time to explore some of Edinburgh’s record shops, something we have been meaning to do for a while. The Balmoral worked beautifully as a starting point for all of it.
“The benchmark by which we compare other luxury hotels. Location, service, food and drink all come together to make the Balmoral a hotel we are always happy to return to.”
Arrival and Welcome
The experience begins the moment you pull up outside.
A warm, kilted welcome awaits at the Balmoral
As soon as you stop at the front door, a kilted doorman with a wide smile appears at the car. Bags are whisked away with easy efficiency. You are welcomed to the Balmoral by name and gently ushered towards the entrance while the car disappears to be parked. It is all very smooth, very natural, and immediately sets the tone.
Rooms at the Balmoral
All of the rooms we have stayed in at the Balmoral have been comfortable and, importantly, quiet. On this visit we looked along Princes Street towards the Scott Monument and the Castle, a view that reminded us exactly why we like using the hotel as our base in Edinburgh.
A restful bed showcasing the delicate colours of the room. Note the splash of colour from Scottish artist Jack Vettriano.
The decor is gentle and restful. Rooms are dressed in a palette of muted browns, greens and soft orange, a real contrast to the bold black and red of their Berlin sister hotel. Fabrics feel substantial, with upholstered chairs, textured cushions and heavy curtains that block out the city when you are ready to sleep.
The bed is the main event: large, with crisp white sheets and pillows that strike the right balance between soft and supportive. There is enough space around it to move comfortably, unpack properly and still have room for a small seating area. It feels more like a well thought-out bedroom than a standard hotel layout.
The restful seating area showing our view down Princes Street to the Scott Monument
Storage is generous, with wardrobes and drawers that can easily handle a long weekend, and there are practical touches such as good bedside lighting and easy access to sockets for charging phones and laptops. The bathroom continues the same calm feel, with plenty of marble, good water pressure and enough shelf space for more than one person’s toiletries.
Taken together, it makes for a very easy place to spend a few nights: quiet, cosy and well designed for actually living in, not just passing through.
Food and drink at the Balmoral
The Balmoral has two main restaurants. Number One is the hotel’s fine dining room, offering contemporary cooking with polished Scottish hospitality. Brasserie Prince is the more relaxed option, a French inspired brasserie that leans on Scottish produce. It is here, in Brasserie Prince and its adjoining bar, that we spent most of our time.
The Hotel Bar at the Balmoral, Edinburgh
Brasserie Prince and the bar
Brasserie Prince is a very pleasant room to spend an evening in. Soft golden light pools under a circular ceiling feature, the walls are lined with patterned fabric, and there is a mix of teal leather armchairs, curved banquettes and marble topped tables. The bar itself is a focal point, with high stools and shelves of bottles and glassware giving it a gentle buzz even before the room fills.
The adjoining bar area works well for both groups and quieter corners. What we particularly like is that residents can reserve a table. It sounds simple, but it matters. We have stayed in other hotels where guests have had to compete with non residents for a seat at the bar. Here, you feel that the hotel looks after its own.
Our brasserie dinner was a great start to the weekend. The menu is French in spirit with plenty of Scottish touches, and it changes regularly. On this visit we enjoyed Crevettes Marie Rose, Salmon Frites, Filet au Poivre and an excellent bottle of Macon Fuissé. Service was friendly, confident and nicely paced, the sort of evening where you can relax into conversation and trust that everything around you is under control.
Prices feel fair for this level, and even better value if you take advantage of the “dine in” offers available to hotel guests, which we did. Another benefit of the location: during dinner we were able to pop down to Waverley to meet a friend from the train and be back at our table within minutes.
Breakfast at Brasserie Prince
In the morning the same room turns into a very good breakfast space. The layout allows for a wide buffet, with international choices alongside local specialities such as haggis and tattie scones, as well as eggs cooked to order.
We could easily have gone out for breakfast in the city, but between the range of food, the quality of the coffee and the unhurried service, it made complete sense to stay in the hotel. For a weekend base in Edinburgh, being able to start the day like this is a real advantage.
Afternoon Tea is served at the Palm Court and is always booked up, for good reason! The entrance is framed by an ornate white doorway with a simple brass plaque; beyond it, the room opens up under a glass dome.
Inside, everything feels lighter. The parquet floor is surrounded by soft banquette seating and low armchairs in greens, blues and patterned fabrics. Painted wall panels show parkland scenes and tree silhouettes, giving the impression of an indoor garden.
In the centre of the room, illuminated blossom trees create a gentle glow that reflects in the tabletops and upholstery. With breakfast and a big dinner coming up, we skipped the scones this time.
Review Summary
The Balmoral is now the benchmark by which we compare other luxury hotels. The combination of location above Waverley, calm, comfortable rooms and consistently good food and drink adds up to a stay that feels both special and very easy. For a weekend in Edinburgh, whether you are catching up with friends, exploring record shops or simply watching the city from your window, it is a hotel we are always pleased to come back to.
Practical Information for the Balmoral Hotel
Address: The Balmoral 1 Princes Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2EQ
Website: https://www.roccofortehotels.com/hotels-and-resorts/the-balmoral-hotel/
Car Parking - there is no parking at the hotel. You can bring your car to the front door for arrival and departure. The nearest car park is Q-Park Omni Greenside Row, Edinburgh EH1 3AN. The hotel can park and collect your car for a small fee.
Arriving by Rail - the Hotel sits at the top of the Waverley Steps, just moments from the platform. Hotel staff can greet you from the train, or help with luggage down to the platform.
As part of our growing series on luxury hotels worth travelling for, the Balmoral sits alongside other favourites from Le Negresco in Nice and the Sofitel Paris Le Faubourg, to the Rocco Forte Hotel de Rome in Berlin and Brown’s in London. We will be adding the Savoy in London soon, another grand hotel that has more than earned its place on that list.